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Brighton Surf report for the South Coast with long distance surfing forecasts for Devon and Cornwall and the south west
Brighton Surf report for the South Coast with long distance surfing forecasts for Devon and Cornwall and the south west
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Brighton Surf report for the South Coast with long distance surfing forecasts for Devon and Cornwall and the south west
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Brighton Surf report for the South Coast with long distance surfing forecasts for Devon and Cornwall and the south west
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Brighton Surf report for the South Coast with long distance surfing forecasts for Devon and Cornwall and the south west
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Brighton Surf report for the South Coast with long distance surfing forecasts for Devon and Cornwall and the south west
Brighton Surf report for the South Coast with long distance surfing forecasts for Devon and Cornwall and the south westBrighton Surf report for the South Coast with long distance surfing forecasts for Devon and Cornwall and the south westMessage Board
 
Brighton Surf report for the South Coast with long distance surfing forecasts for Devon and Cornwall and the south west
Brighton Surf report for the South Coast with long distance surfing forecasts for Devon and Cornwall and the south west
Brighton Surf report for the South Coast with long distance surfing forecasts for Devon and Cornwall and the south west
Brighton Surf report for the South Coast with long distance surfing forecasts for Devon and Cornwall and the south west



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Costa Rica

Duration: Dec 2000 - Feb 2001

 

12 Dec 2000 Day 2 : Costa Rica, Mal Pais

Woke up early due to jet lag. 5 minutes later I am sitting on my board watching a prehistorically proportioned pelican skim across the ocean. As it cruises by, there is no more than 9ft 2 between us. Consider that the week previously I was surfing in three foot mush in Shoreham, squinting through the rain trying to work out which if any of the random lumps of water moving towards me were ridable waves. Find myself smiling.

Distracted by the Pelicans I miss the first set. Unfortunately it doesn't miss me and I get a chance to experience Pacific power first hand. As I scramble back up my leash I find myself wishing that I had brought a board I could duck dive.

Take and make first drop. Smiling again.

Next two weeks: See above.

 

28/12/00 Nicaragua, Madera (Nr. San Juan del Sur)

3pm, Sitting in the back of a 4W drive, bouncing along a dirt road heading for what the driver assures us is the nearest surf beach but looks very much like the middle of nowhere. Walk the last stretch (about a km) of road that is to bumpy and too steep for the 4wd. After 15 minutes finally emerge from the forest onto a pristine beach. Happy to see that there is a small wave but fast wave. Suprised to see that there are some other surfers in the water.

Two hours later I am standing on the beach bleeding profusely, peering through a four inch slice in the palm of my hand. Find some consolation in that my tendons, which I can see, have not been cut.

For the next two weeks conduct study of Nicaraguan Health System. Conclude that you get what you pay for - at my local clinic there was no fee. Discover more of Nicaragua, discover Flor de Cana - without question the best rum on the planet.

Sometime around the end of Jan (3 weeks out of the water = 3 weeks of abuse = when, where, who the fuck am I): Return to Mal Pais...

 

Beg. of February, Costa Rica. Puerto Viejo de Talamanca

Girlfriend recently arrived from UK, I feel compelled to introduce her to my new friend, Flor de Cana.



Its early, humid and cloudy on the Carribean coast. Sit with my girlfriend contemplating Salsa Brava, Costa Rica's Atlantic powered big wave spot.

 

 

Notice large ugly coral head protruding from water directly below the take off point. Recall meeting an Argentian surfer in Nicaragua with 8 stiches in his head and an impressive collection of scabs, the result of a miss timed duck dive at this place. Decide that even if I could find some wax in this town I would leave Salsa Brava to the foolish and those that know what they are doing.


Next two days: Reggae, Rum, Rum, Rice, Rain, Rum, Beer, Rum, Eggs, Rum, Beans.


8/2/01 Costa Rica: Hermosa (due to imminent return to UK decide to locate myself in time and space)

Back on the Pacific coast sitting on my board looking at the beach and my hotel. Estimate that it took about 30 seconds to get from my bed to the surf. To my right is a 10km black sand beach with peaks all the way along.

After several failed attempts I finally get my first wave in Hermosa. Its not even head high but there is so much water and so much power in these waves. Hermosa is class.

A good session over I resolve to spend my last 3 days surfing until my arms fall off.

15/02/01 England: Doctor's Surgery

Diagnosis is tennis elbow and a touch of tendonitus.

Thanks Max.
Some pictures enlarge (click them)


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