out at a reef in Bali when an ozzie guy told me about a mad
little place in WA with incredible waves. Just before we left
Perth to travel north, Pips boss gave her a surfing book,
and he marked in it where we had to go to get there....
kms north of Perth is the turn off onto the dirt track, where
an ominous sign greets you reminding you not to mess with
the ocean on this stretch of coast.
We drove down the track
for 100kms (took us ages in our old wagon!) alongside vertical
cliffs meeting the power of the Indian Ocean, definatly tiger
After hours of driving
we came to a promising sign telling us to turn off.
We set up our camp just
as the sun was setting behind the point. A guy on a motorbike
met us and said we might be lucky as a new swell was arriving
the next day.... oh yes!
I woke up before the
sun had come up over the hills and walked the long way down
the point. It was low tide, and there were perfect little
hollow waves breaking for hundreds of metres off the point.
Although it was breaking almost on dry shelf, the tide was
coming in, so i went back to the camp to get my board.
Walking back to the point,
the swell started to look a bit bigger, which promted the
butterflies in my stomach. I decided to give it a go anyway,
and went to jump off the side of the point for the paddle
Just before my leap,
i looked to my left and saw one hell of a wave hit the point
and barrel the whole way down the line, making thunderous
noise. Something in the back of my mind told me that my level
of surfing wasn't quite where these waves were and i turned
around and walked back to safety, with my tale between my
We spent the rest of
the day watching the 5 or 6 residentsts of this crazy part
of Oz go nuts in these awesome waves.
The next day the swell
dropped of by about half, which was fine by me! I jumped off
the point, and got out the back. The waves were still a massive
challenge. They start to break onto a dry ledge, and the takeoff
spot is only about 10 metres down the line from that! Its
a barrel from start to finish, and the wave is the longest
wave i have ever seen in my life. I saw a dugong (rare dolphin)
while out surfing which topped off the experience nicely.
Out of the water the
place itself is wicked aswell. It feels like a commune, and
there are chicks walking around with about 7 or 8 kids in
tow, all playing in the surf and having a wicked time. The
beach is lovely, and when the swell is huge the shorebreak
is deadly, but wicked fun when it washes you up the beach!!
A great stay on our big
journey up the Wild West.
And just in
case you were wondering...yes, this is Rhys on that left after
it dropped in size!