Trippers: 3 surfers and 2 bodyboarders.
Duration: 5 weeks.
Waves: ranging from 4ft perfection
to killer 10ft.
mental, your first
time in Kuta will always be a memorable one. Cars beeping, traffic
and people everywhere most of them trying to sell you crap.
First day we got
introduced to paradise, sick waves at a secret river mouth with
no one to be seen, but it took a while to get used to the heat.
a week of surfing crowded perfection on Bali's Phuket peninsula
we headed east to an island called Nusa Lenbongan, we arrived and
there was this mad festival where they were digging up bodies, putting
them all in a big box, spinning it around and then burning it. I
was like "this is fucked up". The waves at a secret spot
called Shenanigans were big, cold and scary. The upwelling just
of the break meant the waves were cold and thick. It was more like
West Oz than Indo I was real cold.
Soon it was time
to move on out. Next destination Lombok, an island known notoriously
for heft, and murder. We surfed Maui every morning before the onshore
picked up. This place as like real scary not because of the heavy
waves but because of the gangs that hide in the hills and mug you
when you come out. Our bodyguards (that are advisable here) were
like sitting in the jeep holding there knives shaking for fear of
the gangs. A week before a surfer got his arm cut off at this place
and shoot outs have been known to happen were multiple people get
shot. Anyway the waves were real good here and we got heavy 7ft
barrels onto a lava reef.
Sumbawa, by this time one of the guys was suffering from an ear
infection and had to bail for Bali. Sumbawa was super hot and total
third world territory. The Waves? unreal bodyboarding style sucking
beasts. We were at Supersuck on the worlds best bodyboarding waves.
The day before World champ Andre Bootha and Mike Stewart left and
they took the crowds with them. For three days I got up at 5.00am
and surfed supersuck to myself getting barrels so long I could daydream
in them. Sumbawa caused loads of coral cuts, meaning fissy acid.
Back in the Bali,
it felt ever so safe to what we were used to, a day after we arrived
we got to Dreamlands and it was well over 10ft just macca, so a
trip up to the bone crunching Padang Padang was in order. Listening
to Bad Religion to hype me up didn't help much this place was dangerous
anyway let alone at ten feet. Ten minutes later I was paddling over
10ft beasts with the worlds best knowing that I would have to take
it drop knee cause I can't surf left prone. It was a sick session,
I was the only English guy out there it was life and death, pushing
deep onto the inside, my mind got warped, the barrels turned pink
and my mind was fucked from getting too deep and get worked by these
beasts onto the reef.
The end was near
and Inow had a beard, the last day we got probably the dodgiest
days of all, it was 10-12ft Ulwata and probably too big for the
old drop knee, however I did get a couple of 1 minute long rides
on the biggest waves I've ever surfed. My mate almost drowned
when he snapped
his big gun. A 12footer landed right on his back smashing his head
open on the coral.
We went home that
evening very tired and wanting to get back too the sanity and safety
of England. See you there next year. Marcus Whitney
After the trip, Marcus'
back ligaments gave up and formed lumps on his back. He had to have
an operation at Christmas. At the moment his injuries still prevent
him from surfing and no one knows why. He thinks that maybe it's
the Hindu Gods getting him back for eating their offerings.Whatever,
here's hoping you're back in the water soon Marcus.