Dec 2000 - Feb 2001
12 Dec 2000
Day 2 : Costa Rica, Mal Pais
up early due to jet lag. 5 minutes later I am sitting on
my board watching a prehistorically proportioned pelican
skim across the ocean. As it cruises by, there is no more
than 9ft 2 between us. Consider that the week previously
I was surfing in three foot mush in Shoreham, squinting
through the rain trying to work out which if any of the
random lumps of water moving towards me were ridable waves.
Find myself smiling.
by the Pelicans I miss the first set. Unfortunately it doesn't
miss me and I get a chance to experience Pacific power first
hand. As I scramble back up my leash I find myself wishing
that I had brought a board I could duck dive.
Take and make
first drop. Smiling again.
Next two weeks:
Madera (Nr. San Juan del Sur)
Sitting in the back of a 4W drive, bouncing along a dirt
road heading for what the driver assures us is the nearest
surf beach but looks very much like the middle of nowhere.
Walk the last stretch (about a km) of road that is to bumpy
and too steep for the 4wd. After 15 minutes finally emerge
from the forest onto a pristine beach. Happy to see that
there is a small wave but fast wave. Suprised to see that
there are some other surfers in the water.
Two hours later I am standing on the beach bleeding profusely,
peering through a four inch slice in the palm of my hand.
Find some consolation in that my tendons, which I can see,
have not been cut.
next two weeks conduct study of Nicaraguan Health System.
Conclude that you get what you pay for - at my local clinic
there was no fee. Discover more of Nicaragua, discover Flor
de Cana - without question the best rum on the planet.
around the end of Jan (3 weeks out of the water = 3 weeks
of abuse = when, where, who the fuck
am I): Return to Mal Pais...
of February, Costa
Rica. Puerto Viejo de Talamanca
recently arrived from UK, I feel compelled to introduce
her to my new friend, Flor de Cana.
Its early, humid and cloudy
on the Carribean coast. Sit with my girlfriend contemplating
Salsa Brava, Costa Rica's Atlantic powered big wave spot.
large ugly coral head protruding from water directly below
the take off point. Recall meeting an Argentian surfer in
Nicaragua with 8 stiches in his head and an impressive collection
of scabs, the result of a miss timed duck dive at this place.
Decide that even if I could find some wax in this town I
would leave Salsa Brava to the foolish and those that know
what they are doing.
Next two days: Reggae,
Rum, Rum, Rice, Rain, Rum, Beer, Rum, Eggs, Rum, Beans.
Costa Rica: Hermosa
(due to imminent return to UK decide to locate myself
in time and space)
on the Pacific coast sitting on my board looking at the
beach and my hotel. Estimate that it took about 30 seconds
to get from my bed to the surf. To my right is a 10km black
sand beach with peaks all the way along.
After several failed attempts I finally get my first wave
in Hermosa. Its not even head high but there is so much
water and so much power in these waves. Hermosa is class.
A good session over I resolve to spend my last 3 days surfing
until my arms fall off.
Diagnosis is tennis elbow and a touch of tendonitus.